I found my prolactin. It was in San Diego on top of a 12 foot wave. That's what 3 Speed told me we were surfing, a double overhead that Surfline called 4-6 feet, and that 3 Speed said should be doubled because they measure the middle to the peak. In the comfort of my own apartment I've learned that's not the case, 4-6 feet means just that, but that's not what it felt like when I was pushing for its top.
It felt like I didn't really want it. I didn't. I was thinking, it's been awhile since I've been behind something like this, no matter what size it is. And it's closing out. And if I stay here, on this side of the wave, I'll be fine. So I did. Day two was much better, the waves a true 2-4 feet. If Surfline calls that waist to shoulder high, I say that's go for it height without fear of not making it back to Baleen.
Don't think I didn't get what I wanted. I did. It came around 5.30 each day with a cocktail on the patio, facing due west. It was followed by osso buco and the most buttery chocolate chip cookies, and preceded by breakfasts of frittata and Oma's favorite, German Apfel Pfannkuchen.
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| Evening sunset from 3 Speed and Lisa's apt |
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| 3 Speed applying the gremolata |
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| Hopalong pausing before consuming the osso buco |
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| 3 Speed adding just the right amount of powdered sugar |
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| A breakfast of German apple pancakes, just like grandma used to make |
2 comments:
I stand corrected - they do measure from peak to trough. However, according to Surfline, "occasional MAX waves will be twice the wave height reported by the buoy..." (from an article on Maverick's: http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/mavericks-mechanics-part-two-epic-swells_62537/ ). Constructive interference, I guess. So you may very well have been staring down a 12 foot face that day - I'm surprised we both lived to blog about it.
You're right. We definitely saw 12 foot waves on Saturday and we've lived to blog about it. And it's a good thing we did, otherwise you wouldn't have been around to keep somebody at the Blue Ribbon from changing her life.
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