There's green stuff in the Bay. It's better than the dive bombing pelicans or the shark that a pro surfer saw out at Ocean Beach, but it's always a wee bit startling whenever your arm finds anything but water.
The green stuff gives me a chance to look backwards, a favorite here, and remember surfing in Santa Cruz circa 2002 with Mother of Abigail and Father of Dario. We weren't any good. We sometimes rode what the O'Neil guys didn't like, "If you're on a foamie, you're not my homie," but we ate huge burritos and found a little Northern California sun.
What we did well was float on our boards, looking just like the others in the line-up as we gazed out west for the next wave. We liked it best in the lull between sets, at least M.o.A. and I did, I think, and when it got really slow, we'd wander off to the underwater forest, get ourselves all tangled up and yell, Kelp!
The green stuff gives me a chance to look backwards, a favorite here, and remember surfing in Santa Cruz circa 2002 with Mother of Abigail and Father of Dario. We weren't any good. We sometimes rode what the O'Neil guys didn't like, "If you're on a foamie, you're not my homie," but we ate huge burritos and found a little Northern California sun.
What we did well was float on our boards, looking just like the others in the line-up as we gazed out west for the next wave. We liked it best in the lull between sets, at least M.o.A. and I did, I think, and when it got really slow, we'd wander off to the underwater forest, get ourselves all tangled up and yell, Kelp!
2 comments:
MoA liked the first half of her burrito even more than the lull between sets.
I didn't know MoA distinguished between the first half and the second. I just thought it was a trance.
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